How to AVOID buying a flood damaged car
By Laura Stoneburner
lstoneburner@forumcomm.com
Living in a city where floods break records and make history, it might be important for a person to brush up on their flood-damage knowledge. Many flood damaged cars end up in a junk yard, but some people put effort into cleaning them up and selling them. After all, an unsuspecting buyer would think it’s a gold mine!
Don’t be that unsuspecting buyer. Keep in mind it’s always a good idea to request a vehicle history report to see where the vehicle has been and what it has been through. However, even when you do, it’s possible the car could have suffered water damage which may not be shown on the report.
Therefore, everyone should learn to look for signs of a flood damaged car – especially those living in a flood-prone area. Since the damage is basically everlasting, you should be able to pick up on enough signs that the seller is trying to scam you.
When inspecting a car, check for dirt and moisture. Use your senses! Feel around. Does it feel damp under the seats? If you are able to find dampness or dirt in places such as the dome light, the glove compartment, under the hood, in the console or trunk, beware! While you’re at it, take a big whiff. Since a once sopping wet interior of a car is difficult to dry very quickly, there’s a good amount of time available for mold and mildew to grow, which you should be able to detect by sniffing around.
Before taking it for a drive, there’s one more thing you should look for. Does the interior look normal, or does the car look as if it’s been re-carpeted? Are the floors unrealistically clean? Does the carpet match the rest of the interior? Keep in mind the carpet or seat covers could have been replaced to cover up flood damage. Basically if the interior looks like something designed by Fisher Price, you should re-think the purchase.
If the car passes all these warning tests, see what a technician has to say. They’ll likely be able to better identify the evidence that could leave you with a problematic car.
Any buyer who suspects a vehicle has been involved with a flood should simply walk away. Even if the car appears to be a “good deal,” it won’t be long before you’ll need to replace parts that fail. Keep looking for a vehicle you can depend on.
Laura Stoneburner is an Advertising Writer at The Forum. Her weekly column, “Shootin’ the Wit” can be found online at www.areavoices.com/shootin.
Keep sending your questions and comments! If you have an auto-related question that you’d like answered, email your questions to fma@forumcomm.com or check out www.areavoices.com/FMAutos.
Don’t forget to watch FM Autos for the area’s current new and used vehicle specials.
Posted by: FM Autos on 4/03/2009 at 11:41 AM | Comments (0) | Permalink
Stuck in a snowbank
We’ve all been there. Stuck in a rut. Literally. Whether in your driveway or in the middle of nowhere, you were obviously on your way somewhere and now… you’re not. It’s a pretty helpless feeling, especially when there’s no one to give you a push or, even worse, you don’t have a shovel. This week we want to hear all about your stories. What has happened to you on your winter travels? How did you get out of the snow? Send us at FM Autos an email or comment below. We really want to get a dialogue started this week with our readers. In some fortunate situations, you should be able to free yourself – if you know what to do and what not to do. For example, pressing your gas pedal too hard is probably going to do nothing but make your tires spin, which usually only helps dig you lower. Instead, drivers should try to apply steady, light power. Here are some additional tips to help you escape the snowbank: Even for a front wheel drive, it’s not a good idea to have your wheels turned. Since the car is forced to move at an angle, it increases the amount of power needed to get going again. Once the car starts moving, gently turning the wheel can get you going the way you want to go with a lot less effort and sliding. Rocking the car back and forth, forward and reverse, can help if the reason for being stuck is piled snow or ice in front of and behind the tires. Patience is the key here. It can take quite a bit of rocking before the car is free. Letting a little air out of the tires can also greatly increase your traction and get you out of a stuck situation. Do keep in mind however that under inflated tires cause the vehicle to burn more gas; they also wear out faster, so you will want to air them back up when you are able to. If you have someone with you and the car is sliding, try having him or her put weight over the drive wheels. This increases traction and can get you out your predicament. The biggest dos and don'ts are usually the ones most often neglected. Primarily these have to do with carrying some form of snow shovel when traveling in snow and ice. Even a garden spade is better than nothing at all if you find yourself needing to dig yourself out. A collapsible shovel takes up little space and doesn't weigh much, but they can be a blessing if you find yourself stuck in a snowstorm. Having material you can put under the tires to increase traction can also be very helpful. Many people carry sand, which also helps by increasing weight in the vehicle. Clay style dry cat litter is even better. A few handfuls in front of and behind all four tires can often get you right out of being stuck. The litter is also natural, so it is environmentally friendly. Do you have something you carry with you in the winter? Let us know! Send us a comment or an email. Keeping calm when you get stuck in the snow and ice is a huge help, and having some notion of how to get unstuck is too. Some preparation is helpful as well. Between these, you need never wonder what to do when you get stuck. You are well on your way to getting free. Surely our readers have their own survival stories, or just stories of how they got “un-stuck.” We’d like to hear your story, and any tips you might have, on winter travel. Go ahead – post your stories. You never know when someone else could learn from your experience. Source: Rex Trulove, Helium.com If you have an auto related question that you’d like answered, email your questions to fma@forumcomm.com or check out www.areavoices.com/FMAutos. Don't forget watch FM Autos for the area's current new and used vehicle specials.
Posted by: FM Autos on 3/03/2009 at 8:16 AM | Comments (1) | Permalink
Cold weather car wash tips
By: Laura Stoneburner
lstoneburner@forumcomm.com
Some of us have a thing about keeping our cars clean. Driving around town, it never fails to amaze me… Some vehicles are caked with so much dust, salt and sand that you can’t even see through their rear window. Others, even in the midst of a sloppy winter storm, look spotless.
I'm particular about my vehicle. Most assume I inherited this from my dad, which is definitely not the case. A car nut, you'd think my pops would have it down to a T. However, he's more the type to let cars go 10,000 or more miles before an oil change. He drives his tires to the point where they're as bald as Howie Mandel. He rarely, if ever, has over 1/8 a tank of gas – usually only when my mother borrows the vehicle and puts gas in for him. And as far as cleanliness goes, "clean" to him is when a portion of the license plate is still legible and there are less than three empty Burger King containers stuffed under the driver’s seat.
Thankfully, I picked up zero maintenance tips from him.
Where the detailer in me came from, I don't know. But I must say I thoroughly enjoy vacuuming it, washing the windows with the squeegees at gas stations, and on the best days, bringing it to the car wash. Car washes have become somewhat of an addiction for me, especially during the winter. And summer. Well, okay, fall and spring as well.
I’ve washed my car enough around town to know a few of the good washes. Spending $10 on a wash isn’t something I would have done in the past, and I probably never will. However, I’ve received a few gift certificates and punch cards from friends who have caught onto my madness, giving me a chance to try out even the best of the best washes in town.
The first Fargo wash I ever used was the Stop-N-Go’s that give you a pretty good deal with a gas fill – especially on Tuesdays. Another similar wash can be found at Tesoro/Stamart stations. I’ve concluded that most convenience store car washes are similar. Some of them offer the Tri-Gloss protectant, which is always a nice touch.
There’s Whale of a Wash, where you can find the cheapest deal in town if you want to manually spray down your car. It’s pretty quick, and with several locations around Fargo-Moorhead and several stalls per wash, you likely will never have to wait. I’d recommend bringing your own bucket of soap and water and towels. After all, according to my brother, “drying it is the most important part.” I’ve found this is especially true if you own a black car. Leave it to air dry, and your car ends up looking like a Dalmatian.
The Simonson wash on Main Avenue in Fargo is one of the better washes I’ve been to, and not just because of the cute young lads who helped be sure my car drove out of the wash spotless. They handed me a towel for the inside as they gave my car a pre-wash spray down. My car in neutral, I got pushed through the wash which caked soap on thicker than I’ve ever seen and sprayed that multi-colored protectant on it. Young boys were found at the end of the wash, too, ready to dry the car off. Per my request, they even sprayed down my rubber mats! My car was shinier than any other wash it’s been to.
Don’s Car Washes is a similar experience, only I had to get out of my vehicle and watch it progress through the tunnel wash through a window. Don’s also uses protectant, making your car shiny and giving it the protection it needs during a winter in this region.
I’ve also heard great things about the Fastlane wash. They offer packages – unlimited car washes for a monthly fee. They have a variety of interior and exterior washes. A Fastlane wash is on my list of things to do.
It’s nice to have someone else wash your car for you – especially during the cold weeks. However, when it warms up, I enjoy bringing it to a wash where I can spend the time (and save the money) scrubbing it down and drying it off on my own.
As for washing your car during winter months, many people ask “What’s the point in the winter? You wash it and it’s dirty again in two blocks.” Either that or, “Whenever I wash it, it rains or snows the next day.” Okay… washing your car in the winter is a science. It's tough! You have to find the right day, time, place and conditions to do it. As a car washing fanatic, I’d like to offer the lesser experienced a few tips:
• The roads need to be completely clear and dry or have ice packed down so hard you couldn't get a jackhammer through it. Washing your car during the slushy phase is pointless. You’ll find if you wait a day or two, you’ll have the perfect conditions.
• Keep an eye on the weather. If it's going to rain, snow or a mix of the two tomorrow, hold off on the car wash. Wait until there is no precipitation in the forecast.
• Drive slow once the car is spick-n-span. There are two reasons for this. First, your vehicle will stay cleaner on the drive, leaving you with a better opportunity to admire the cleanliness when you get home. Second, driving two miles per hour gives a greater percentage of the community an opportunity to see how great your car looks. Be careful not to go too slow, though. For if some tool gets impatient and cuts you off, road crud is going fly, ruining your wash job. This is not only irritating, but embarrassing as well.
• If temps are in the neg, you have to pick the right wash or know how to dry it down yourself. The washes with the one minute blow-dry at the end aren’t going to cut it when it’s -35 degrees. Some washes wipe out your door jambs for you (Don’s and Simonson’s to name two). Having your car door frozen shut is no fun.
• Even in the summer, dry it off to avoid water spots. It’s worth the time it takes to towel it down.
• If you’re scrubbing yourself, don’t use dish soap. It strips your clear coat.
• Remember to wax your car twice per year! Many washes have soaps so strong that it will strip the wax off of your car. Winter slop strips the wax too though, so be sure to wash it once every week or two.
Laura Stoneburner is an Advertising Writer at The Forum. Her weekly column, “Shootin’ the Wit” can be found online at www.areavoices.com/shootin.
Keep sending your questions. If you have an auto related question that you’d like answered, email your questions to fma@forumcomm.com or check out www.areavoices.com/FMAutos.
Don't forget watch FM Autos for the area's current new and used vehicle specials.
Posted by: FM Autos on 2/20/2009 at 10:45 AM | Comments (0) | Permalink
Protecting your car from you
By: Laura Stoneburner
lstoneburner@forumcomm.com
This week was one of the sloppiest, wettest, gooiest weeks I can remember. While we were all in a tizzy over when Fargo was going to turn into an ice cube, the rain just kept on coming. In addition, the mountains of snow piled up in various places look more like foothills now.
And what is the result? Well, they say there’s a lesser chance of flooding this spring. That’s good news! The freeze never really came, thank goodness! And it we didn’t have much to complain about with the warmer temperatures – except, of course, how damp everything became.
So after a week like this, how does the inside of your car look? How are those floor mats holding up? I’m hoping nobody has mats any shade lighter than dark, dark gray. There is so much slop, sand, grit, dirt and mud out there that you’d better have something protecting your car’s carpet to save from gross stains and bad smells.
When it comes to keeping my car clean, I’m a pro. I take my vehicle to the car wash about once a week, and never really have to clean the inside because, well, it’s always clean. I’m sitting at a red light; I dust. I’m waiting for my gas tank to fill up; I shake out the floor mats. I bring it to the car wash, and I wipe out everything. Sometimes in the summer, I’ll even bring my vacuum outside and vacuum the seats, floors and all the nooks and crannies.
Keeping it clean just never gets old. So when I get on the topic of floor mats, I’ve got a lot to say.
First of all, factory floor mats are nice, especially when they’re specific to your car. Mine, for example, say the model of my car up the side of the mats. I love them. In fact, I love them so much that come winter, I was too stubborn to protect them by placing another mat over them. They were too pretty to cover up! Then I noticed how “dingy” they started looking from all the winter slop I was tracking into my car.
I had a flashback to a time visiting Jarrod from The Auto Spa. I recall him recommending people to put nice, rubber mats in your car to protect the factory mats. Suddenly I couldn’t get his recommendation out of my mind “If you don’t, the mats will get wet under there and start to smell... which is not good.”
Start to smell!?!
My car was not going to be smelly, and I am not planning on blowing money on a new set of factory mats just because I was too careless to invest in some decent floor mats.
I had previously tried to do the job with some cheap, flat, floppy rubber mats. Since they were flat, any more than a teaspoon of water would drain off onto the carpet. I headed to Sears and purchased two very large mats with a lip on them. I swear… these things hold so much slosh that I could dump a gallon of water on my floor and still have dry carpet!
These protective rubber mats are the way to go. They’re available at most any auto store in a variety of colors… black, gray, and even clear! By investing in these mats, you’ll keep your factory mats in good shape, protect your carpet and have a much easier time cleaning the interior of your car – or keeping it clean, if you’re that type.
Laura Stoneburner is an Advertising Writer at The Forum. Her weekly column, “Shootin’ the Wit” can be found online at www.areavoices.com/shootin.
Keep sending your questions. If you have an auto related question that you’d like answered, email your questions to fma@forumcomm.com or check out www.areavoices.com/FMAutos.
Don't forget watch FM Autos for the area's current new and used vehicle specials.
Posted by: FM Autos on 2/13/2009 at 8:41 AM | Comments (0) | Permalink
Traveling with your furry friend
Experienced pet owners know a road trip with “pawed” family members can be a bit of a hassle. Traveling with a pet involves more than just loading the animal and taking off, especially when driving long distances. However, a safe and comfortable trip is possible if you play your cards right. Here are a few key things to keep in mind when road tripping with your furry friend.
Invest in a well-ventilated carrier. There are a variety of wire mesh, hard plastic and soft-sided carriers available. “Get a kennel big enough that they can move around in and be comfortable,” said Becky Black, manager at Doggy Depot, 3224 8th St. S. in Moorhead. Keep in mind there should be enough for your pet to stand, sit, lie down and turn around in. If at all possible, get your pet used to the carrier in the comfort of your home before your trip.
It also helps to take your pet on a series of short drives before taking then on a road trip across the country. Gradually increase your pet’s time spent in the car. Be sure to secure the crate so it won’t slide or shift to accommodate for any hard braking or swerves you may need to make. In addition, Black recommends taking them on short trips to fun things, “The dog park, daycare, or just for a ride. When you’re picking something up, bring your animal with. Don’t only bring them to the vet because if that’s the only thing they know, the minute they get in the car they are scared and nervous,” she explained.
Feed your pet a light meal three to four hours prior to departure. Avoid feeding them in a moving vehicle—even if it is a long drive.
Never leave your animal alone in a parked vehicle. On a hot day, even with the windows open, a parked automobile heats up in no time. In cold weather, especially in our area, the animal could freeze to death.
Make sure your pet wears a collar with an info tag. You may want to attach a temporary travel tag on them which lists your cell phone, destination phone number and any other relevant contact information.
Dogs love it – cats not so much, but it’s not a good idea to allow your pet to ride with their head stuck out the window. Besides the possibility of getting hit by something, this can subject them to inner ear damage or lung infections.
When it comes to water, bring your own. Opt for bottled water or tap water stored in plastic jugs. Drinking water from an area you pet is not used to could result in tummy upset.
If you travel frequently with your pet, you may want to invest in rubberized floor liners and waterproof seat covers.
To avoid much use for the rubberized liners and waterproof covers, don’t forget to stop. “ Remember to stop for potty breaks. When you stop on the potty break offer them water,” said Black. “Music seems to be calming for dogs, so you could try playing music in your car.”
Last, but not least, don’t forget to pack for your pet! Here is a list of things you may need:
Travel papers, food, bowl, leash, a waste scoop, plastic bags, grooming supplies, rabies vaccination record, medication and a pet first-aid kit and a favorite toy or pillow.
Sources: www.aspca.org
Keep sending your questions. If you have an auto related question that you’d like answered, email your questions to fma@forumcomm.com or check out www.areavoices.com/FMAutos.
Don't forget watch FM Autos for the area's current new and used vehicle specials.
Posted by: FM Autos on 2/06/2009 at 4:39 PM | Comments (0) | Permalink
It’s time for us to ask you a question
At FM Autos we encourage the readers to submit any car-related question for us to answer. We’ve received and answered several questions… and now we’re out. This is difficult to believe!
We wrote up an article on car batteries followed by answers to questions about waxing your car in the winter, whether you should spend the money to inflate your tires with Nitrogen, the differences between diesel #1 and #2, and whether or not you should let your car warm up during the cold winter months.
You can’t possibly be out of questions, Fargo-Moorhead – we haven’t even admitted to being stumped yet!
We want your questions enough to offer you a free oil change if you email us your question. So go ahead – send ‘em in. And no need to be embarrassed if your car isn’t up to par. We won’t poke fun at readers wondering how to stop their car from rusting or those seeking suggestions to prevent you from running out of gas – again.
We look forward to hearing from you. Please mail your questions to fma@forumcomm.com or check out www.areavoices.com/FMAutos.
Posted by: FM Autos on 1/22/2009 at 4:08 PM | Comments (0) | Permalink
Should I stay or should I go?
Each week, we encourage readers to submit their car related questions for us to answer. This week’s question:
“I usually don't start my car in the mornings before driving off thinking it wastes gas and my car will warm up faster when driving which usually happens. Is it true just starting your car and driving off during the winter is bad for the engine?”
Wow. What a great time to receive this question – after a string of days which never exceeded several degrees below zero. I know I’ve tried the start and jet approach with several cars, and I always end up regretting it. I end up apologizing to the car each time it shifts… or tries to shift.
I was interested in what a pro had to say on the topic. I know the cars sound bad. They feel terrible… but is it bad for them?
I headed to Sahr’s Sudden Service, 601 4th. St. N., to get Ron Sahr’s opinion on how well you should treat your car during the glacial period we call winter.
Starting the interview, I wanted to know straight out… do you do damage to your car when you start and run?
“No, it really doesn’t damage anything,” Sahr said. “But your fluids – your transmission fluids, power steering fluids, your engine oil, things like that do not have a chance to circulate and warm up. I mean if it’s 20 or 30 above, you just need a minimal warm up. But when it’s 25 or 30 below, it’s a good idea to let your car warm up 5-10 minutes. I always think it’s nice to let your car warm up until you can actually feel a little heat coming out of the vent.”
I did some research on the issue and found several sources which gave reasons not to let your car sit and idle.
First, sitting and idling is the slowest way to bring it up to operating temperature because it’s generally sitting in drive at just above idle speed. Articles emphasized that with today’s modern engines, you don’t need longer than 30-60 seconds of idling on winter days before driving away.
30-60 seconds? Even though I read this from several sources, I was still skeptical. Where are these people from? This week, temps in our area plummeted to -28 degrees. That’s not warm. My car didn’t want to start, let alone drive! At any rate, I don’t know that I would feel comfortable driving the ice cube down the road.
Further, Sahr liked your car to yourself. “You know, it’s like you in the morning. You get out of bed and it’s cold and the more you work, the better you feel, and that’s how those cars are too,” he explained. “If your car sits outside overnight, and there’s frost and it's cold outside, your windshield wipers are going to be sticky, your doors are going to be sticky, the heater motors aren’t going to run right... I mean if you sat outside at 40 below, things aren’t going to work properly on a human. It’s the same thing with a car.”
For practical purposes, Sahr recommended letting your car warm up. “When you start your car up cold, you’ll hear the car’s engine clicking because it’s not getting properly lubricated. It’s always good to get everything moving.”
Sahr also recommended using synthetic motor oils. According to Sahr, synthetic oil pours freely at 20 or 30 below, whereas natural, mineral-based oils would be very thick, like molasses.
“When you use synthetic oil, you know that your transmission and your engine are getting lubricated properly – even under extreme cold conditions. It takes a while… the reason your car turns over slowly in the morning isn’t because of your battery, even though at zero it only puts out half, but the reason it turns over so slow is because the oil is so thick.” This is why Sahr’s Sudden Service recommends synthetic oil for cars that sit outside.
So basically, you’re not likely to do a modern car any damage by starting it up on a cold morning and driving, as long as you’re taking it easy. However, allowing your car a few minutes to warm up and get the fluids circulating has it’s benefits – especially during weeks like this one.
If you have an auto related question that you’d like answered, email your questions to fma@forumcomm.com or check out www.areavoices.com/FMAutos.
Laura Stoneburner is an Advertising Writer with The Forum. Her weekly column can be found at www.areavoices.com/shootin.
Laura Stoneburner is an Advertising Writer at The Forum. Her weekly column, “Shootin’ the Wit” can be found online at www.areavoices.com/shootin.
Remember…
Our free oil change a week is still going on for one more week . So send in your comments and questions. Whoever sends in the one we use next week will get a free oil change from the Luther Family Ford Quick Lane.
Brought to this week by
Luther Family Ford’s Quick Lane Service Department
Posted by: FM Autos on 1/16/2009 at 4:55 PM | Comments (0) | Permalink
How to survive a Fargo winter with your diesel
By Laura Stoneburner
lstoneburner@forumcomm.com
This week’s question:
“How cold (roughly) can it get before fuel filter plugging can occur?”
Trying to research the different types of diesel fuel became confusing to me. I decided to head to the Flying J, 3150 39th St. SW in Fargo, to do a little diesel talking with General Manager Bill Walker.
Walker informed me that refineries make a transition in October. They reformulate gas and diesel fuel for the winter to make it easier for your vehicle to fire up. With the way the temps have been so far this winter, we need as much help as we can get!
“That’s when you see all these shortages in October, you’re coming to the harvest season and everybody is thinking that the refineries are ripping everybody off,” Walker said. “What they’re really doing is reformulating their fuel, probably cleaning up the refinery, reformulating and giving us stuff that will work through the winter period. It switches back in late March or early April, depending on how the season is going for them.”
The normal diesel (#2) that you run during the summer has a lot of paraffin (wax) in it, which provides you with more power, is cheaper and allows you to go further on a gallon of fuel. When you buy a winter diesel blend or a straight #1 diesel, they have refined out some of the paraffin. This means #1 fuel has less lubricity and is very dry and in turn is not the best for your engine. In addition, your engine burns #1 fuel a lot faster than diesel #2. The benefit? It won’t gel up. Which is why they offer a blend of #1 and #2.
A blended winter fuel still has some of the paraffin in, but the additive changes the size and shape of the wax molecules so it will still go through the filter.
Walker stressed that the Cold Filter Plug Point (CFPP) is what diesel drivers are concerned about. “The CFPP is when the filter gets webbed up. It’s what shuts you down.”
Walker informed me that some people still fuel up with #2 during the winter months. “A lot of the people who are used to the weather up here run a straight #2 where they get their power and mileage year-round. This is only for drivers who are running hard, and if the vehicle is sitting, it’s sitting in a heated shop. If you’re going to keep it outside, you have to have some sort of winter blend or #1 diesel.”
The problems with diesels in our winter weather is nothing new, but with the application of new technologies as well as new regulations there is more potential for cold weather issues than ever before. For many our winter weather on the frozen tundra meant the diesels got plugged in at night and used winter fuel. That may not be enough any more.
Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD) and far tighter filtering of the fuel is causing the filters in vehicles to reach their CFPP earlier than in the past. This stuff it getting quite technical now so those of you who don’t really want to know this much about diesels in cold might want to skip ahead.
The CFPP is when fuel will no longer pass through the filter quickly enough. This was a fairly reliable and important number to know, until the onset of ULSD. With the new regulations effecting diesel engines and fuels the test used to determine the CFPP is no longer as accurate in our real frozen world as it used to be. Diesel drivers now have to put a little more guess work and effort into their trucks.
Lonnie Hager from Luther Family Ford wouldn’t recommend #2 fuel for the winter. “I just would never use #2 in this part of the country during winter time. Even with anti gel, you are still going to get some gelling. I wouldn’t use anything less than blended – or blended with a little bit of #1,” Hager said.
Knowing the difference between the diesel fuels gave me a better understanding, but I still hadn’t found the answer to this week’s question: “How cold (roughly) can it get before fuel filter plugging can occur?”
“It depends on each individual fuel,” Walker said. “Ours came through the refinery at 6 degrees this year. That doesn’t mean it’s going to plug up exactly at that. If they’re exchanging fuel, it could go to 15 below if their engine is running. The big thing with CFPP is whether you’re static – if it’s sitting there and you are going to start it up is way different than being on the road. The CFPP doesn’t even matter if you’re running. It’s when you stop that it’s a problem. Then you could, with untreated diesel #2 could have trouble at 6 degrees.”
Hager didn’t recommend using #2 diesel in this area during this time of year. In fact, he wasn’t even sure a person could purchase it in the area around this time, other than possibly at a truck stop.
“Any of them are going to plug up with #2 diesel fuel in it,” Hagar said. “The exact temperature? A #2 fuel will start to thicken or cloud up a little bit at 20 above. If you don’t have any additives in at 20 degrees, it starts to get heavier and thicker and your fuel filter is already partially restricted. It’s just going to stick to the filter quicker and gel up a lot faster. For the blended fuel, if it’s blended real well, you could probably take it to 20 below. If it starts getting colder than that, you could put a little bit of #1 in to make it a little thinner yet.”
Basically diesel fuel becomes difficult at 20 degrees, requiring close attention to what you put in your vehicle at any temps below that mark.
For the winters here, winter diesel #1 sounds like the best option, assuming you don’t have constant access to a heated garage through the winter months.
This has been by far the most challenging question posted to FM Autos. Lonnie at Luther Family Ford gave a gift of one of his very own Bobble-heads to help to keep my head up. Thanks Lonnie!
Often times with questions such as this, there will be other opinions and follow-up questions. Readers are welcome to post questions and comments to the comment section of the blog!
Keep sending your question. Remember there are still a few weeks on the free oil change promotion remaining.
If you have an auto related question that you’d like answered, email your questions to fma@forumcomm.com or check out www.areavoices.com/FMAutos.
Laura Stoneburner is an Advertising Writer with The Forum. Her weekly column can be found at www.areavoices.com/shootin.
Brought to this week by
Luther Family Ford’s Quick Lane Service Department
Posted by: FM Autos on 1/09/2009 at 3:19 PM | Comments (0) | Permalink
The benefits of filling with nitrogen
By Laura Stoneburner
lstoneburner@forumcomm.com
“We've all heard about the benefits of filling our tires with nitrogen, from increased gas mileage to longer tire life. Does nitrogen really have benefits over air when it comes to my tires, or is this a myth dreamed up by an entrepreneurial auto mechanic?”
When I first read this question, I found myself wondering would the substance inside your tires matters. In this instance, it’s on the outside that counts, isn’t it? The quality of the tire and keeping the right pressure is all we need to worry about, right?
Well, I was partially right. I stopped by Fargo Tire, 3201 39th St. S., to visit with Vice President Paul Anderson to figure out whether this nitrogen thing was for real or just a bunch of hype. Turns out, tire pressure is even more important than I thought, and using nitrogen helps keep your tires properly inflated.
Anderson listed several advantages to filling your tires with nitrogen.
Basically, since nitrogen has larger molecules than oxygen, it escapes less quickly, keeping your tire pressure consistent. “When you fill your tires with nitrogen, tire pressure is more consistent. Therefore, you are less likely to have over or under-inflated tires. Having a low tires causes more drag, which will reduce your mpg and makes your tires wear out quicker,” Anderson explained.
In addition, Anderson noted that nitrogen doesn’t heat up. “Since heat takes a toll on your tires, not having the hotter, regular air in there will make your tires last longer,” he said.
Anderson estimated that about 20% of people use nitrogen. Even though this isn’t a large percentage, he still believes it’s a good thing for people to do. The cost to fill a tire varies between $3-10 per tire, often depending on the size of the tire.
Since only a select few places in Fargo offer nitrogen filling, I thought I’d get a second opinion from a place that doesn’t offer the service. I called Dave Paulson from Dave’s West Fargo Tire, 1225 Main Ave E. in West Fargo.
I figured he’d have a good reason to steer clear of this gas. To my surprise, he completely agreed that using nitrogen is a good idea. “Nitrogen is a good thing because it stabilizes air pressure and doesn’t contain any moisture. That’s why it’s more stable – because moisture creates the fluctuation in air pressure,” Paulson explained. “It also helps you save on fuel because the tires will hold the proper inflation for a longer amount of time.”
According to www.getnitrogen.org, tires with plain ol’ air lose about 1-2 PSI every month – 6 PSI by the time you have your oil changed.
Air consists of 1% water vapor and other gases (escapes up to 250 times faster than nitrogen), 21% oxygen (escapes 3-4 times faster than nitrogen), 78% nitrogen (largest molecule in air, dry and non-flammable). By reducing the percentage of oxygen, water vapor and other gases in your tires from 22% to 7% or lower, your tires will maintain proper pressure longer than air. Tires with 95% nitrogen will retain optimal pressure three to four times longer.
The point is, the less oxygen and water vapor in your tires, the better.
For more information, or to find a list of businesses in the area that provide nitrogen filling, please visit www.getnitrogen.org.
If you have an auto related question that you’d like answered, email your questions to fma@forumcomm.com.
Laura Stoneburner is an Advertising Writer at The Forum. Her weekly column, “Shootin’ the Wit” can be found at www.areavoices.com/shootin.
Remember…
Our free oil change a week is still going on throughout January, so send in your comments and questions. Whoever sends in the one we use next week will get a free oil change from the Luther Family Ford Quick Lane.
Brought to this week by
Luther Family Ford’s Quick Lane Service Department
Posted by: FM Autos on 1/02/2009 at 11:12 AM | Comments (0) | Permalink
Winter Waxing and Washing: Tips from the pros
Over the past few weeks we've encouraged readers to submit their car related questions for us to answer. This week’s question:
“I do my best to take really good care of my car inside and out. My question has to do with waxing it for the winter conditions. I did not have time to get it waxed before it snowed, so now I am wondering whether I should wait until the weather clears up for at least a day or just get into a shop to wax it when I can? Also, what kind of wax should I ask for - is there a thicker wax for winter?”
Good one!
Thankfully, just before the weather got bad, I busted out the ol’ rag and can-o-wax and got the job done. I probably wouldn’t have, had my brother not offered his expertise and a helping hand with the project. He was pretty gung-ho about it. He began applying the wax before I could get my lazy bum out of the house. He had a good start on the project when I finally joined him, at which point he went to help another sibling with a different task and left me to finish up the project myself. It didn’t take me long to remember that applying the wax is much, much easier than removing it.
Upon finishing, I felt a sense of relief, as I was under the impression that this not-so-easy project would protect my car all winter. When we received this question, my first thought was “that poor son of a gun is too late!” I didn’t know waxing a car in mid-winter was an option.
I began my investigation at Don’s Car Wash, 2727 13th Ave S, in Fargo. I was interested to hear what they’d recommend.
The General Manager, Dan Durr was more than willing to answer the questions about car care during this harsh season. According to Dan, “It doesn’t really matter when you wax your car, as long as you do it. You could do it a couple times in the spring or fall or the middle of winter – whenever it’s convenient for the person. As long as the car is protected, the time really doesn’t matter.”
Durr added that waxing your car by hand or having a detail shop do the work (Don’s Car Wash offers those services), gives the car better protection than just washing it and having it sprayed on the car. He added that “doing both (washing and waxing) is the best thing to do.”
Durr further explained that when you wax your car by hand, you’re putting a lot more on. When you bring your car through a car wash, the foams and sealants sprayed on the car are not as much of a protectant. “That’s why we think when someone washes their car, they should do it a couple times per month,” he said.
Durr also pointed out that there are a lot of painted areas that you can’t get at when hand buffing your car– around the edges, underneath the car, around the wheel wells, and in the cracks and crevices that are painted. This is usually where rust starts – not the flat surfaces of the car.
“That’s what’s great about washing your car in a tunnel car wash,” Durr explained. “You can do it all year round, and it protects it from the stuff they’re putting on the streets these days.”
Unfortunately, if you don’t do anything, that “stuff” attacks the paint surfaces of your car. “If you just leave your car all winter, by the time spring comes along, it has eaten into the clear coat of your car.”
Even though Don’s Car Wash offers a hand wax, I was interested to hear what an auto detailer had to say on the subject. I stopped by The Auto Spa, 2202 2nd Ave E in West Fargo, to discuss waxing with owner Jarrod Nyland.
To my surprise, Nyland agreed that it doesn’t matter what time of year you get your car waxed.
“Some people think during the winter is a bad time, which it’s definitely not. I struggle with that. Winter is actually the most important time because of the salt and gravel. Having a good protectant on your car definitely makes a big difference,” Nyland explained.
Nyland recommended waxing your vehicle twice a year. When? “That’s personal preference,” he said. “It doesn’t have to be until spring, it doesn’t have to be before winter. It can be during winter. It’s just good to have a coating on there.”
Since Durr told me the spray sealants last for about a week, I was curious to know how long a hand wax would hold up. According to Nyland, 2-3 months, depending on how well you take care of your car. “If you go through a car wash once a week, depending on what type of car wash you go through, the soaps are sometimes strong and can actually strip the wax off.”
Nyland didn’t mean to discourage anyone from washing their car. “Definitely wash it. Once a week – once every couple of weeks at least. The idea is to avoid leaving the same stuff on there for too long. You don’t want snow and ice built up underneath in your suspension and inside of the wheels,” he said. “But if you do leave it sit, if you’ve had your car waxed, it does make a big difference.”
So the next part of the question… is there a thicker wax for winter? No. There are, however, sealants. Again, how long a sealant lasts is based on how well you take care of your car. A sealant should last about 6-8 months, depending on whether you park your vehicle inside or outside and whether you wash it yourself or go through a car wash, as car washes often have stronger soaps.
For the do-it-yourselfers, if you haven’t waxed it by now and are looking to do so, you’ll need to find a heated garage, unless we get record-breaking temps this winter, which doesn’t seem all that promising at this point. If you don’t have a heated garage, waxing your car is basically impossible. Different brands have certain application temperatures. If you put your wax on a cold surface, it won’t work well. It won’t bond like it should and will be very difficult to work with.
As for what type of wax to use, don’t get the cheapest one. If you’re going to spend the time and energy waxing your own car, at least purchase a quality product that will make your effort worth while. If you don’t already know, waxing your car is not the easiest project to take on by yourself, as it causes a bit of wear-n-tear on your shoulders.
In summary, remember:
1.) Wax your car twice a year.
2.) It doesn’t matter when you wax it, just be sure you do it.
3.) Even after waxed, remember to wash your car every so often to avoid salt and road residue from building up, sitting on your car and eating away at your clear coat.
Don’s is open all year round, no matter how cold it is. They are open Monday through Saturday 8 a.m. – 9 p.m. and Sunday 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. For a list of packages and services, visit www.donscarwashes.com.
The Auto Spa specializes in cleaning the interior and exterior of any car, boat or motorcycle. They are open Monday through Friday from 8 a.m. - 5:30 p.m., evenings and Saturdays by appointment. For a list of packages and services, visit http://www.theautospa.biz.
If you have an auto related question that you’d like answered, email your questions to fma@foumcomm.com or check out www.areavoices.com/FMAutos.
Laura Stoneburner is an Advertising Writer at The Forum. Her weekly column, “Shootin’ the Wit” can be found online at www.areavoices.com/shootin.
Remember…
Our free oil change a week is still going on throughout the month as well as in January. So send in your comments and questions. Whoever sends in the one we use next week will get a free oil change from the Luther Family Ford Quick Lane.
Brought to this week by
Luther Family Ford’s Quick Lane Service Department
Posted by: FM Autos on 12/24/2008 at 11:25 AM | Comments (0) | Permalink
